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BESTOWING FROM YOUR BOUNTY
Over two decades ago, someone gave me a painted tile for use in my kitchen. Hot containers of food rest on this trivet which protects the counter from burns. Though it’s been glued back together, chipped and lost the bracket for hanging, the tile remains in a place of honor, surviving several moves.
The painted tile is decorated with the last two lines from the poem “The Art of Living.” After all these years, I these words are meaningful to me as I consider the blessing of being able to share with others. I used to dread occasions when I might have to give because I was so focused on what I DIDN’T have. This changed when I began to take an inventory of my resources.
24 HOURS IN A DAY
Time is limited for all of us, making it a precious gift. Great wealth is not necessary for you to let someone know they are special. One of my boys still remembers a week from his childhood that he fell asleep hearing my used sewing machine grinding. By the end of the week, he had his own super hero outfit and cape. This past November, I was cleaning out a closet when I discovered he had saved that old mask and a shirt I had made for him long ago.
TALENTS
Several weeks each year were used by my grandmother to crochet special gifts to give to family members at Christmas. She didn’t get overwhelmed, rushed or overspend, but rather made good use of the time and materials she had on hand.
USE YOUR IMAGINATION
It’s nearly impossible for me to be creative if I’m not first grateful for all that I have. When my attitude is right, I’m then able to consider the possibilities. Paint and other decorations can give used and free items a second life. Children would thrill to have a chair with their name on it or a customized bike. Once you’ve trained yourself to spot creative opportunities, you’ll just need a little planning. What are your talents? Could you combine several small items to make one? Do you know of off-season sale items that could be given later? Do you have surplus items that someone else might enjoy? Craft items, sewing supplies and old tools are often available for the asking.
SHARING YOUR DELIGHT
It wasn’t enough for me to just give to my children, but I also wanted them to know the thrill of giving. A craft project may be too complicated for them to do alone, but they can help label, package and distribute the gifts. Sometimes, we just make things before we’ve decided who the recipient will be. Part of the fun might be trying to guess who will get the homemade cookies we’ve just spent a couple of hours baking.
Part of the fun for our family is being able to surprise others with unexpected gifts; it’s a rewarding experience.
I’ve located the entire poem and included it below. I don’t have the name of the author.
THE ART OF LIVING
To touch the cup with eager lips and taste, not drain it;
To woo and tempt and count a bliss, and not attain it;
To fondle and caress a joy, yet hold it lightly;
To watch the sunset in the west without regretting;
To hail its advent in the east, the night forgetting;
To smother care in happiness, and grief in laughter;
To hold the present close, not questioning the hereafter;
To have enough to share, to know the joy of giving;
To thrill with all the sweets of life -- that's living.
GARMENT REPAIR -- DARNING
Knowing how to darn can allow you to extend the life of garments and linens around your home. With a little patience and a few tools, you'll be able to gain the experience you need to become skilled at darning fabric.
WHAT YOU'LL NEED
A DARNING EGG
The purpose of this tool is to rest against the wrong side of your fabric and provide you with a firm surface while you work on the right side, mending the hole.
If you don't have a darning egg, that's okay. One can easily be improvised. Ceramic or plastic eggs can be used as well as old door knobs and even light bulbs. For small holes, you may find you are able to do without and just use your hand.
THREAD TO MATCH YOUR FABRIC
This is important as you don't want to create a lumpy mend, by using a thread that is too bulky or too thin, especially if you are repairing socks or an undergarment. I find that cotton sewing thread works well for socks. Heavier gauge quilting thread works well for canvass or heavy jean materials. Yarn is used for crocheted or knitted work.
A NEEDLE TO MATCH YOUR THREAD
If your needle is too small, you will find it difficult to get your thread into the eye. If your needle is too large, you may find yourself fighting to force it through the fabric, especially when the bulk of the needle's eye passes through.
A RUBBER BAND OR TWINE
This is to secure your fabric taught over your darning egg. You don't want to place this too securely, and you CAN do without it. I find that with small holes, it is nice to have the egg stable, not sliding around behind the work. A rubber band helps secure your work to your egg. If your hole is very large, you may not want to use a rubber band, as it may push your egg through the cloth.
SOMETHING WITH A HOLE IN IT
A sock is a good starting project. It's very forgiving. If you are not well pleased with your results, no one will see your first attempt. If you must throw it out and start over, it's no real loss. Additionally, these usually present the beginner with small holes to gain experience before someone accidentally manages to rip your upholstery. Consider using a sock that has a contrasting color to your darning egg. It will make it easier to see your thread.
To begin your project, choose a well lit area where you are comfortable. I find that when I'm learning a new skill, it is helpful to select a less hectic time of day when I have fewer interruptions. (That almost made me laugh when I typed it.) If you are a mom, this is a relative thing. Just assemble your materials near your favorite chair and steal a moment when you are able.
STEP 1 -- WARP YOUR LOOM
Do what to who? I know we aren't learning how to weave on a loom here, but the principle is the same. Just as you would place your warp thread on a loom using a figure eight pattern, you will do this with your darning. The fabric is your loom and your thread, at this stage, is your warp yarn.
Use your needle to go under the edge of the fabric and come back out the right side. Then go back down into the hole of the garment with your needle, under the opposite edge and repeat. This creates a figure 8 looping as you see in the illustration. Be careful to work far enough beyond the edge of the hole so that you are anchoring your warp into secure stitches.
Take care not to pull the thread too taught as you will want to keep the same tension as the garment and surrounding fabric. This will keep it from puckering when you begin to weave in your weft thread.
STEP 2 -- WEAVE IN YOUR WEFT
I know, again you're thinking I've left the topic. No, the weft yarn is your same thread now working in a horizontal over and under pattern. Use the point of your needle to weave over and under the warp threads. You can also use your needle to push the weft thread snug against the warp as it is threaded back and forth. At the end of each row with your weft, use your needle to place an anchoring stitch into the garment.
Continue alternating your weft over and under the warp threads in alternating patterns until the hole is mended.
Here's a video of a woman darning a knitted sock. She uses a darning mushroom. It has a larger and flatter surface, very similar to a doorknob.
HOW TO CROCHET
Why bother learning to crochet?
By taking the time to teach yourself a new skill, you will be limited only by your imagination as to how this can be applied.
Crocheting is a skill that can provide your family with many custom-made items. By crocheting, you can create beds known as hammocks. Using that same hanging net system a chair can be made. Rugs, bedding, clothing, hats, belts, shoes, bags and many other useful items can be created by varying the size of your hook and your materials.
Where do I find patterns?
Patterns are available at many skill levels. Yarn retailers know that providing their customer base with new and fun patterns creates a market for their materials. Books, magazines and the internet are just three of the resources for patterns. As you become more skilled, you may find that you develop your own crochet patterns.
Materials
Don't limit yourself to pretty threads and yarns from the local retail outlet. Crochet work can be done with strips of old clothing, string, rope and even grasses and vines. If you find yourself without a crochet hook, these are simple tools that can easily be carved out of wood or fashioned out of a stiff length of wire. In a pinch, you can even learn to utilize your fingers to do the work. Even without the use of a machine, a skilled worker can learn to produce a large amount of material.
Getting started
For learning, I recommend that you use a ball of cotton thread and create some squares that can be used as pot holders, hot pads, wash cloths or even as protective mats beneath a lamp or decorative item. A beginner will find it necessary to undo and redo a row a few times before the proper tension and technique is learned. THIS IS PART OF THE LEARNING PROCESS and not a sign of failure. If you are patient with yourself, experience will increase your skill level.
For a beginning project I recommend starting with a small, squared item. A square item will tell you quickly whether or not you are turning the work correctly by how straight the sides appear. Counting the stitches will also tell you whether or not you are dropping or adding a stitch out of place. By working on smaller projects initially, you will be encouraged as your efforts are quickly rewarded with a finished project. As your speed increases, you will then gain the confidence to tackle larger projects.
At the end of this post, I have included a pattern that is offered free of charge by Lion Brand Yarn.
Here are some videos that demonstrate the basic stitches you will need to master in order that you might follow a simple pattern.
Chain Stitch
In patterns, this stitch will be abbreviated "ch st."
Single Crochet (includes good information on how to turn work) In patterns, this stitch will be abbreviated "sc."
Double Crochet In patterns, this stitch is abbreviated "dc."
Half Double Crochet Abbreviated as "hdc." -- Note: This instructor, from the UK, refers to the stitch as a half treble crochet stitch.
Triple Crochet Abbreviated as “tr.”
Slip Stitch This will be shown as “sl st.”
When you are reading a crochet pattern, here is a quick guide to tell you what the various abbreviations mean:
| ( ) | work instructions within parentheses as many times as directed |
|---|---|
| * | repeat the instructions following the single asterisk as directed |
| * * | repeat instructions between asterisks as many times as directed or repeat from a given set of instructions |
| [ ] | work instructions within brackets as many times as directed |
| ” | inch(es) |
| alt | alternate |
| approx | approximately |
| beg | begin/beginning |
| bet | between |
| BL back | loop(s) |
| bo | Bobble |
| BP | back post |
| BPdc | back post double crochet |
| BPsc | back post single crochet |
| BPtr | back post treble crochet |
| CA | color A |
| CB | color B |
| CC | contrasting color |
| ch | chain stitch: refers to chain or space previously made: e.g., ch-1 space; ch(s) chain(s) |
| ch-sp | chain spac |
| CL | cluster |
| cm | centimeter(s) |
| cont | continue |
| dc | double crochet |
| dc2tog | double crochet 2 stitches together |
| Dec | decreas(e)(s)(ing) |
| dtr | double treble |
| FL | front loop(s) |
| foll | follow/follows/following |
| FP | front post |
| FPdc | front post double crochet |
| FPsc | front post single crochet |
| FPtr | front post treble crochet |
| g | gram |
| hdc | half double crochet |
| Inc | increase/increases/increasing |
| lp(s) | loops |
| m | meter(s) |
| MC | main color |
| mm | millimeter(s) |
| oz | ounce(s) |
| p | Picot |
| pat(s) | or patt pattern(s) |
| pc | Popcorn |
| pm | place marker |
| prev | Previous |
| rem | remain/remaining |
| rep | repeat(s)(ing) |
| rnd(s) | round(s) |
| RS | right side |
| sc | single crochet |
| sc2tog | single crochet 2 stitches together |
| sk | skip |
| Sl | slip |
| Sl st | slip sitich |
| sp(s) | space(s) |
| st(s) | stitch(es) |
| tbl | through back loop |
| tch or t-ch | turning chain |
| tog | Together |
| tr | treble crochet |
| trtr | triple treble crochet |
| WS | wrong side |
| yd(s) | yard(s) |
| yo | yarn over |
| yoh | yarn over hook |
Before beginning a project BE SURE TO CHECK YOUR GAUGE. At the beginning of most patterns, you will find something called a gauge. This will tell you how many stitches equal a certain size and how many rows of that stitch equal a certain size. By working a small test swatch of crochet work, you will know whether or not your thread and hook will create the correct size to produce the right sized finished work.
For example, if you work the stitches and rows given for the gauge (say, 4 inches) and produce a smaller size than the gauge (3 ½ inches), then you know that you will need a larger hook or you will need to hold the yarn more loosely or a combination of the two. If your swatch is larger than the gauge, then you may need to use a smaller hook, use more tension on the yarn or a combination of the two.
The amount of time it takes to produce a gauge is not wasted, but will ensure that you get the finished product you desire.
Making a potholder is a good beginner’s project for those learning how to crochet. Be careful to utilize a cotton yarn for this type of project as synthetic (or synthetic blends) will melt and adhere to surface when they come in contact to heat. The following pattern can be found at Lion Brand Yarn’s web site. They offer a variety of patterns free. (http://www.lionbrand.com/patterns/ckc-pot.html?newreg=1)
POTHOLDER:
SKILL LEVEL: Beginner
SIZE: 8½ inches x 8½ inches
Materials
4-ply worsted-weight yarn of 100% cotton, 1 ball
Crochet Hook - Size K-10.5
GAUGE:
5 sc = 2 inches; 8 rows = 3 inches.
With 3 strands of yarn held together, ch 21.
Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across (20 sc). Ch 1, turn.
Row 2: Sc in each sc across. Ch 1, turn.
Rows 3-21 (or so): Rep Row 2 until piece measures 8" from beg.
Last Row: Sc in each sc across, end (ch 10, sl st in last sc made) for loop. Do not fasten off.
Edging Row: Ch 1, sc in same space as last sl st, then sc in each row-end st along the side of potholder to next corner, 3 sc in corner, sc in each st of starting ch to next corner, 3 sc in corner, sc in each row-end st along opposite side edge of potholder. Fasten off.
